Aconcagua

How climbing relates to starting a company

2012-01-04T13:37:00.000-08:00

Article I wrote for entrepreneurs about how climbing relates to starting a company: Seven Strategies for Success

Wrap-up with Photos and Videos

2010-02-01T20:51:00.000-08:00

Summit Photo

Our amazing team on the summit of Aconcagua on January 24th 2010 at 345pm. From left to right: Peter (guide), Michael, Kent, Marty, Martin (guide), Adair, Ben (lead guide), Gordie, Ann, Evan and Rick.

Below are some select photos and videos of the way up above Base Camp. We encountered some nasty weather at both Camp 1 and High Camp, with Camp 2 being relatively calm.

Storm at Camp 1

Our carry to Camp 1 was unremarkable, but when we returned the following day to setup camp, a bustery storm greeted us just as we tried to setup our tents. The video below captures some of this weather.

View of Summit from Camp 2

Camp 2 was relatively calm compared to the two other camps below and above it. We had beautiful views of the summit to the south and the Andes to the north. We even had a glacial stream gurgling at night (until it refroze) which was nice to listen to as we lay awake each night.

Cold High Camp at Nearly 20,000 ft

At 19,600 feet, our High Camp was higher than many high mountain peaks including Kilimanjaro. The wind was fierce at times up here, and it was here that we experienced the thunderstorm that brought large hail and thunder that seemed to come from all around us. In general though, we were glad to be here because we knew we were "in a position" to summit when the time was right.

Final Push to Summit

Near Summit with South Face in Background

Summit day was very long, requiring 8.5 hours to reach the top, and another 3 hours to return to High Camp. We were smiling here but the march up the final face (called the Canaleta) seemed to go on forever.

Roommates at the Top

Our team of roommates from college had been planning this trip for many years. It was wonderful to be able to reach the summit together.

Our Guides Got Us Up!

On a mountain like Aconcagua, the guides are the only reason a team of climbers stays sane over such a long endeavor. Our team of IMG guides (Ben Kurdt, Peter Anderson and Martin Lucero) were incredibly patient and thoughtful throughout the climb. They monitored our physical and mental health in various ways to make sure the whole team was moving up to each new camp in a positive manner. Their decision to use a very tight weather window to reach the summit and then return safely to Camp was critical to our success, Others that did not use that window had to either abandon their summit bid or wait out the snow for another day or two. At that altitude, the waiting can be as debilitating as the rigors of climbing. We were very lucky to have such a capable team of guides to lead us all to the summit!

A final thank you to my wonderful family from the top of the (non-Himalayan) world! -gr

Update for Tuesday, January 26, 2010

2010-01-28T16:44:00.000-08:00

Today we returned to civilization. After a good sleep on the surprisingly comfortable slats of the mess tents, we woke to a pancake breakfast (with Dulce con Leche, a godsend) and began our final march out of the wilderness. As you can see from the original post of the approach route we took to reach Aconcagua, we are now heading back out to the highway from the other side of the mountain. This route is called the "Normal Route" as it is the most popular, and most direct, access to the mountain. Our guides said that we would understand why they chose to approach Aconcagua via the Vacas Valley when we see how desolate this alternative is. As a group we chose to complete to entire 16-mile gap between Mulas base camp and the highway in one final non-stop push. Our lead guide Ben said it would take about 8 hours, and we were determined to cut that time down. We reached the trailhead at the highway in 6.5 hours. It was described by many members of our team as a "death march." We were ready for our 4-hour van trip back to Mendoza and a long, hot shower.

The next post will include photos from this incredible journey...

Update for Monday, January 25, 2010

2010-01-28T16:28:00.000-08:00

After collapsing in our tents after summit day on Sunday, we awoke this morning to more high drifts of snow that fell overnight. The guides let us sleep in until 9am as reward for our big day yesterday ;). It was an exciting morning as we are able to descend and breathe in some richer air after days at 20,000 feet or higher. We broke camp after a short breakfast and put back on our crampons. We descended a long, "unrelenting" slope of the east face of the mountain, dropping almost 6,000 feet to Plaza de Mulas base camp (pictured above) on the "Normal Route", ending the day at 14,000 feet. Mulas provided some creature comforts we had not seen for many days. We has pizzas and even a beer or two within a mess tent. We felt as though we has returned to a small city.

In order to make a quick getaway the following morning, we pushed the tables back in two of the mess tents and slept on the floor. The air was thick with oxygen and we all slept better than we had in many days.

Update for Sunday, January 24, 2010

2010-01-24T23:13:00.000-08:00

We summited Aconcagua today at 3:30p in the afternoon (local time).

It was an epic combination of 8.5 hours up and about 3 hours back down. It made for an 11.5 hour day, non-stop. We woke up to beautiful weather and got on the trail at about 7am because it was very cold earlier in the morning so we decided to wait a little longer. We had a combination of beautiful conditions at times, and windy conditions at other times on the way up. As we approached the summit (3,200 feet from our high camp to summit) a snow storm ensued and we had snow, not only during the steep climb to the summit but also all the way back down. About a foot of snow fell on the way down. It was a great experience.

All 8 members of the team summitted, which is an amazing success rate! The guides (Ben, Peter and Martin) deserve a great deal of the credit for steering us and guiding us through this adventure!

We are all now back at Pedras Blancas (high camp at 19,600 feet) and we will be heading down to the Plaza de Mulas base camp tomorrow during the day.

Update for Saturday, January 23, 2010

2010-01-24T22:13:00.000-08:00

We made the move today up to our high camp at 19,600 feet called Pedras Blancas, which took us about 4 and a half hours. We woke up this morning to sunshine but very cold weather. The winds were calm but the temperatures were the coldest we've experienced to date. We are looking forward to the sun cresting over the cliff to our East.

We made the move with relatively lighter packs than the carry day. We arrived at Pedras Blancas and the site was set up for us thanks to a guide who ran ahead and got the site ready. After taking a small break, we got the tents up, and as we were getting the tents organized, a thunder cloud came towards us and we had the most bizarre weather for the next couple of hours. Since that time, we hunkered down in our tents and approximately 3 to 4 inches of snow has fallen and lighting and thunder is all around us. We stayed away from the cliff walls around us and remained in our tents on our Therm-a-Rest sleeping pads so we don't conduct. After about an hour and a half, the thunder storm passed and we had bright sunshine which melted a good amount of snow. It was aching hot in the tents for about half an hour. Then the thunder storms returned. Around 6pm, there were clouds above us and below us in the valley (at around the 15,000 foot level).

It's been an interesting day. Most importantly we are preparing for our summit attempt tomorrow morning. Subject to weather conditions, we are planning to leave camp sometime after 430am in the morning and as late as 7am depending on the cold and the wind (which will determine our departure time).

Update for Thursday, January 21, 2010

2010-01-21T13:10:00.000-08:00

Today was a very big day. After a move yesterday from camp one to camp two, we were tired and weak. At dinner last night, we polled each member of the team individually to see if we were up for another push today to carry up to our high camp, camp three, also known as Piedras Blancas. That's a climb from 18,000 feet up to 19,600 feet.

This morning we awoke to beautiful sunshine although it was still cold. After assessing how our sleep (or lack thereof) went, our lead guide made a decision to carry today. The reason for his decision was based on the flexibility of being at our high camp and having the option to attempt a summit if the weather is just right. Although tired, we were excited to keep moving and get to the high camp. We set out around 10am, on a very good trail although it was steep at times. In general for our group, altitude is affecting each of us in a different way. Whether it's sleeping patterns being broken or difficulty breathing with our heavy packs on, the team showed great strength and we made it to the high camp over about 4 hours.

We dropped our heavy cache and had a quick lunch. There was a large thunder cloud in the adjacent valley and the concern was that it might come our way. In the end, it didn't, but it made us eat lunch quickly and set back down the trail, back down to camp two.

Over lunch at camp three, we remarked that for many of us, this is a personal best! Camp three, at 19,600 feet, is taller than Kilimanjaro in Africa and Elbrus in Russia. As a team we were impressed with our current progress and the moves we have accomplished from day to day.

We have not had a rest day since base camp and we are looking forward to one tomorrow. After our rest day, the goal is to move to camp three on Saturday. Tomorrow our lead guide will be checking the weather forecast because we are in a position to summit over the next couple of days. Although it won't change our rest day tomorrow, we will have a better idea of what the outlook will be over the next few days.

This will also be the last time we are carrying our heaviest packs. We have now gotten our heaviest gear up to our highest camp. From camp three, we will summit with relatively light packs of just warm clothes and come back down after summiting, back to camp three.

Update for Tuesday, January 19, 2010

2010-01-20T09:31:00.000-08:00

As I reported in the last blog, we came to camp one in a blinding snow storm. The snow subsided around midnight but the wind continued to make a very windy night until about 3a or 4a. We awoke to beautiful sunshine, a "bluebird" day for our carry to camp one (the carry to camp one is about a 6 hour climb from 16,400 ft to 18,000 ft). Relatively straight forward terrain with quite heavy packs. "Carry" days end up being heavier days than "move" days.

We ascended a long gradual valley up to a "col" (also known as a "saddle" which is a small pass between two peaks) across the saddle then traversed across to camp one. Beautiful camp! Nestled, looking out to the north across the Andes. Much different view then we've seen to date. We set down our cache and returned to camp in 45 minutes, about a 4 hour climb up, and a 45 minute walk down, practically skiing at times due to our packs being so light, we were able to descend very quickly.

We had a relaxing night. Tomorrow we will be moving up to camp two, and a new altitude level at 18,000 feet.

Update: Monday, January 18, 2010

2010-01-19T11:20:00.000-08:00

The day started with beautiful sunshine. Seemed crystal clear with the exception of some interesting clouds on the horizon that were different from the clouds we've been seeing. As we looked at the top of Aconcagua from base camp, we noticed a cloud formation that told us there might be some weather coming in.

Today was a day of moving to camp one. We had "carried" to camp one yesterday retracing the exact same steps from base camp up to camp one. We went from about 2400 feet of elevation to about 16,300 feet, which is where we are now. We carried packs that were the same weight as the ones carried yesterday. It was definitely deja vu all over again. As we reached the plateau where camp one is located, snow started falling and the wind picked up. As we crested the hill, snow and wind were driving quite hard. We were experiencing 30 to 40 mile an hour winds and blinding snow fell as we set up our tents (a very important thing to do quickly in a cold situation like this).

We are now all in our tents, waiting to prepare dinner. The wind is howling outside!

Update, Sunday, January 17th

2010-01-17T17:33:00.000-08:00

This was one of the hardest days of the climb, next to summit day. We climbed 2300 feet from base camp to camp one, carrying heavy loads through ice fields and heavy rock scree. This poster reached a personal best, unlike most on the team, the poster has never climbed above Whitney at 14,500 feet and today we reached 16,300 feet, a personal best for me. We have completed a very challenging day for the team and we're all feeling tired but happy to have this done and have that accomplishment behind us.

Tomorrow we will take up other heavy loads to camp (at Camp One) and move up to the upper mountain.

Update for Friday, January 15th

2010-01-17T17:19:00.000-08:00

First real climbing day. Left Casa de Piedra. Forded the Vacas river on mule back and headed up a side valley. Climbed 3200 to 13,800 feet over about 6 hours. The ride to base camp called Plaza de Argentina, just as clouds were building. We got our tents up just as the snow started to fall. Snow began coming down hard but no wind and not too cold. Base camp is impressive, with permanent mess tents and even satellite/internet access. Altitude is now an issue for us but everyone is feeling good. Rest day on Saturday.

Quote of the day, "Where there is smoke, there is lomo."

Update for Thursday, January 14, 2010

2010-01-14T14:55:00.000-08:00

Chilly night at Punta del Vacas. Wind calmed shortly after sunset. Hiked 10 miles today with a gradual climb of 1100ft. Still very hot under the towering sun above! Our highlight was the first glimpse of Aconcagua through a side valley. Menacing summit over 13000 ft above us in the distance. Cloudy on top, with what looks like snow falling. Summit forecast calls for snow today and tomorrow. We're glad that we are not planning to be there for another 10 days!

Quote of the day, "Oh...I mean THAT is Aconcagua!"

Update for yesterday, Wednesday, January 13, 2010

2010-01-14T14:50:00.000-08:00

First approach day, an easy day! We left Los Penitentes and trekked 7 miles & 1500 feet through Pampa de Lenas. Enjoyed a beautiful walk along the Vacas river. The muddy water slowly cleared as we went higher. Took in narrow, towering canyons with 1000ft cliffs on both sides. Surprise dinner of Argentinean bbq with grilled squash & eggplant and even a bit of Argentinean Malbec wine was served! Longer trek tomorrow. All are doing well with lots of laughs shared, but we are still low.

Quote of the day, "Loser...you can't train that out of someone" (said about an NFL player).

2010-01-09T23:15:00.000-08:00

Thanks to the generosity of my amazing wife and kids, and my partners at work, I am setting out this week to attempt to climb the highest peak outside the Himalayas. Aconcagua is located near Mendoza, Argentina (see below). It is the second highest of the “Seven Summits” after Everest (the Seven Summits are the highest mountains in each of the seven continents.)

Basic Itinerary

I departed Sunday for Argentina and will be back in SF on January 30, 2010.

The plan calls for a few days of travel and gear organization, then a three day hike to the mountain. This approach march could be in 70 degree F weather. By Saturday, January 16 we should arrive at base camp. Then we begin the process of carrying loads up, and sleeping back down low, continuing up the mountain to three separate camps (Camps I and II, and High Camp). From there, we await the chance to summit at 22,840 feet. With luck, the first day on which we could reach the summit is Sunday, January 24. Of course, weather and acclimatization will both come into play. Once on the mountain it will be cold. The summit is usually -20 degrees F.

Evan Corcoran and Adair Prall, who were my college roommates and rowing teammates and with whom I have climbed a few mountains before, are on the trip. Evan first proposed the idea of climbing Aconcagua in January 2008, and by November 2008 we had developed a plan. So the trip has been a long time in the making. We three join five additional climbers and three guides for a total team of 11 people. Those of you who wonder about medical issues will be pleased to know that there are two doctors and one nurse (one of the guides, who is trained in wilderness medicine) among the team members. And, of course, all will want to be extra careful with a trial lawyer (Evan) in the group.

Detailed Itineraries for each week (click on week for calendar)

Jan 10 – 16

Jan 17 – 23

Jan 24 – 30

The Route
Approach Route from the Northeast (click to enlarge).

The route above Base Camp will take us to Plaza Argentina (Camp 1) from there up to "Helicopter Camp" below the Polish Glacier (Camp 2). From there on we will take the traverse to the Normal Route and high camp at Pedras Blancas (Camp 3) and the up to the summit. Summit Day is a very long climb up the ridge and up to the summit from the southeast. (click to enlarge).

Until we can provide our own pictures of the voyage, click here for a series of photos of a similar climb. Click on "Previous Picture" (?) at the bottom to scroll through the climb from bottom to top.

Contact Information

I will not have email or telephone access for most of the time I am away. The guide service has advised the team to "let family and friends know that they probably will not hear from you until you are off the mountain." That said, we will have a satellite phone and thus will not be entirely cut off from the outside world. If the technology works, I am planning to post daily short text updates along the way (by way of numeric keypad on the sat phone so they will be SHORT.) The updates will also be posted on Twitter (@gordonritter) and Facebook (Gordon Ritter) so you can check in there as well.

Photos to come when we get back from the climb.